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ender 3 pro

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ENDER 3 PRO – PETG ISSUE – EXTRUDER CLICKS AND PETG WORN DOWN BY EXTRUDER [SOLVED]

So this is she was a tricky one your extruder starts to click but the PETG still prints for a while. If it goes on long enough your PETG will stop printing all together and jam in the nozzle

When you clear the jam by pulling the PETG out and you look at the hot end part of it, it’s melted and thicker than the rest of the filament.


When you look at the filament where it was stuck in the extruder it’s substantially worn down and sometimes it’s completely broken off

Essentially what’s happening here is you are putting too much filament through the extruder and it’s backing up at the hot end. Once it backs up too much it jams the nozzle in your extruder starts clicking and wearing down the filament all the way to the point where the filament will break off

The fix for this is easy slow down the amount of filament you are putting through the extruder and that will solve the issue. PETG cannot print as fast as PLA so you will need to put new settings in for the print speed field in your slicer.

I have found that printing somewhere between 1800 to 2200 mm/min is the sweet spot for my under three pro running Amazon basics PETG black. However this setting will change depending on the manufacturer you use and the color and the density of the filament as well.

ENDER 3 PRO – OVER EXTRUSION ISSUE FIX [SOLVED]

To fine tune your Ender 3 Pro you will need to measure the amount of filament that is passing through the machine using the following test, to ensure your settings are correct

First you going to want to disconnect your hotend from the extruder, and place these in an area where you can heat them up and they will not damage themselves or anything around them.

Next you’re going to want to go into the settings of your Ender 3 and click on preheat PLA. This will warm up the hot end and allow you to extrude for our test

Measure out 120mm from entry point on extruder to the spool, and mark it on the filament using a notch or a marker (I prefer a slight notch)

Open Octopi
Go to Terminal Tab
Enter in the following code
G1 E100 F100
Press Send
This will extrude 100mm of filament

Now measure the difference of what went in, verses what is left.
I extruded 101mm instead of 100mm, and have 19mm left before my notch

Back in Octopi
Terminal Tab
Enter in the following code
M503
Press Send

Search for M92 line and verify it says E93
This is what you will edit

To figure out the new value for E93 do the following
100/101*93=92.08
E93 should be E92.08

The values above translate to this
100 – Distance that should have been extruded
/ – divided by
101 – is the distance that was extruded
* – Multiplied by
93 – This is the E93 value we saw earlier

Back to Octopi Terminal Tab
Enter in the following
M92 E92.08
Press Send

Enter in the following
M500
Press Send

Your new settings are saved, and your extrusion will be accurate. Feel free to repeat the above steps to ensure your settings are correct and the extrusion works as expected

Unable to connect to Octopi.local on Windows 10 [SOLVED]

So you can connect to from your Apple device (iPhone, Mac, iPad, etc) but you cannot connect to it from your Windows 10 computer.

This occurs because Microsoft doesn’t natively recognize .local extensions.

Solution:
Install iTunes onto your Windows 10 computer. This will add the bonjour service which will allow you to connect to octopi.local

After you install iTunes, visit http://octopi

You can now use your Windows 10 system with OctoPrint

ENDER 3 PRO – EXTRUDER CLICKING [SOLVED]

When you begin printing, your extruder starts to click, and continues to click for the first few minutes

This happens because the filament is unable to be pushed through the nozzle.

Solution:
1. Check the temperature of your nozzle and make sure it is hot enough to melt the filament. For PLA that would be 185C.

2. Level your bed. If your bed is too high the filament cannot extrude. By re-leveling the bed, and lowering it a notch, your issue should be resolved.