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SIMPLIFY3D SETTINGS FOR A DIRECT DRIVE ENDER 3 PRO USING eSUN’S PETG IN BLACK

I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice eSUN’s PETG in Black, on a Creality Ender 3 Pro with a Direct Drive setup, using a Micro Swiss Hotend.

Slicer Profile can be downloaded here:
https://tacticalware.com/downloads/Tacticalware_Direct_Drive_Ender_3_Pro_ESUN_Black_PETG.fff

Hardware that I used:
Ender 3 Pro

Direct Drive
https://amzn.to/2IR0usR

Hotend
https://amzn.to/37iIrVW

Tubing
https://amzn.to/2IQ8V7N

eSun PETG
https://amzn.to/34fRxke

And I have the following gear in place running Octoprint:
Raspberry Pi 4 (4gb)
https://amzn.to/3q551IO

SanDisk 32GB Ultra microSDHC UHS-I Memory Card with Adapter
https://amzn.to/2Vfvo0y

CanaKit 3.5A Raspberry Pi 4 Power Supply (USB-C)
https://amzn.to/3fNTYPu

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 4 Micro HDMI Cable – 6 Feet
https://amzn.to/33u5hr9

Western Digital 500GB WD_Black SN750 NVMe
https://amzn.to/3nZ5pH4

Plugable USB C to M.2 NVMe Tool-free Enclosure
https://amzn.to/3lflV3L

The most important thing is after you setup your system, you will need to dial it in. For that, you can refer to these pages:
Configure your Extrusion Multiplier:
https://tacticalware.com/ender-3-pro-simplify3d-configuring-the-extrusion-multiplier/

Confirm your heat settings:
https://tacticalware.com/3d-printing-heat-tower/

Thanks for reading!

SIMPLIFY3D SETTINGS FOR A DIRECT DRIVE ENDER 3 PRO USING HATCHBOX’S PETG IN BLACK

I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice Hatchbox’s PETG in Black, on a Creality Ender 3 Pro with a Direct Drive setup, using a Micro Swiss Hotend.

Slicer Profile can be downloaded here:
https://tacticalware.com/downloads/Tacticalware_Direct_Drive_Ender_3_Pro_HATCHBOX_Black_PETG.fff

Hardware that I used:
Ender 3 Pro

Direct Drive
https://amzn.to/2IR0usR

Hotend
https://amzn.to/37iIrVW

Tubing
https://amzn.to/2IQ8V7N

Hatchbox PETG
https://amzn.to/385qWHQ

And I have the following gear in place running Octoprint:
Raspberry Pi 4 (4gb)
https://amzn.to/3q551IO

SanDisk 32GB Ultra microSDHC UHS-I Memory Card with Adapter
https://amzn.to/2Vfvo0y

CanaKit 3.5A Raspberry Pi 4 Power Supply (USB-C)
https://amzn.to/3fNTYPu

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 4 Micro HDMI Cable – 6 Feet
https://amzn.to/33u5hr9

Western Digital 500GB WD_Black SN750 NVMe
https://amzn.to/3nZ5pH4

Plugable USB C to M.2 NVMe Tool-free Enclosure
https://amzn.to/3lflV3L

The most important thing is after you setup your system, you will need to dial it in. For that, you can refer to these pages:
Configure your Extrusion Multiplier:
https://tacticalware.com/ender-3-pro-simplify3d-configuring-the-extrusion-multiplier/

Confirm your heat settings:
https://tacticalware.com/3d-printing-heat-tower/



Thanks for reading!

SIMPLIFY3D SETTINGS FOR A DIRECT DRIVE ENDER 3 PRO USING SainSmart’s TPU

I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice SainSmart’s TPU, on a Creality Ender 3 Pro with a Direct Drive setup, using a Micro Swiss Hotend.

Slicer Profile can be downloaded here:
https://tacticalware.com/downloads/Tacticalware_Direct_Drive_Ender_3_Pro_SainSmart_TPU_Red.fff

Hardware that I used:
Ender 3 Pro

Direct Drive
https://amzn.to/2IR0usR

Hotend
https://amzn.to/37iIrVW

Tubing
https://amzn.to/2IQ8V7N

SainSmart Red TPU
https://amzn.to/3mmCOdB

And I have the following gear in place running Octoprint:
Raspberry Pi 4 (4gb)
https://amzn.to/3q551IO

SanDisk 32GB Ultra microSDHC UHS-I Memory Card with Adapter
https://amzn.to/2Vfvo0y

CanaKit 3.5A Raspberry Pi 4 Power Supply (USB-C)
https://amzn.to/3fNTYPu

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 4 Micro HDMI Cable – 6 Feet
https://amzn.to/33u5hr9

Western Digital 500GB WD_Black SN750 NVMe
https://amzn.to/3nZ5pH4

Plugable USB C to M.2 NVMe Tool-free Enclosure
https://amzn.to/3lflV3L

The most important thing is after you setup your system, you will need to dial it in. For that, you can refer to these pages:
Configure your Extrusion Multiplier:
https://tacticalware.com/ender-3-pro-simplify3d-configuring-the-extrusion-multiplier/

Confirm your heat settings:
https://tacticalware.com/3d-printing-heat-tower/

Thanks for reading!

SIMPLIFY3D SETTINGS FOR A DIRECT DRIVE ENDER 3 PRO USING eSUN PLA+ BLACK

I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice eSUN’s PLA+ in Black, on a Creality Ender 3 Pro with a Direct Drive setup, using a Micro Swiss Hotend.

Slicer Profile can be downloaded here:
https://tacticalware.com/downloads/Tacticalware_Direct_Drive Ender_3_Pro_ESUN_Black_PLA.fff

Hardware that I used:
Ender 3 Pro

Direct Drive
https://amzn.to/2IR0usR

Hotend
https://amzn.to/37iIrVW

Tubing
https://amzn.to/2IQ8V7N

eSun PLA+
https://amzn.to/37gdSjs

And I have the following gear in place running Octoprint:
Raspberry Pi 4 (4gb)
https://amzn.to/3q551IO

SanDisk 32GB Ultra microSDHC UHS-I Memory Card with Adapter
https://amzn.to/2Vfvo0y

CanaKit 3.5A Raspberry Pi 4 Power Supply (USB-C)
https://amzn.to/3fNTYPu

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 4 Micro HDMI Cable – 6 Feet
https://amzn.to/33u5hr9

Western Digital 500GB WD_Black SN750 NVMe
https://amzn.to/3nZ5pH4

Plugable USB C to M.2 NVMe Tool-free Enclosure
https://amzn.to/3lflV3L

The most important thing is after you setup your system, you will need to dial it in. For that, you can refer to these pages:
Configure your Extrusion Multiplier:
https://tacticalware.com/ender-3-pro-simplify3d-configuring-the-extrusion-multiplier/

Confirm your heat settings:
https://tacticalware.com/3d-printing-heat-tower/



Thanks for reading!

SIMPLIFY3D SETTINGS FOR AN ENDER 3 PRO USING ESUN’S White PLA+

I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice eSun’s White PLA+, on a Creality Ender 3 Pro using a Micro Swiss Hotend. If you have already downloaded and are using my eSun Black PLA FFF file, you will still need this one. Different Colors require different settings.

Slicer Profile can be downloaded here:
https://tacticalware.com/downloads/Tacticalware_Ender_3_Pro_eSun_White_PLA.fff

Hardware that I used:
Ender 3 Pro


Hotend
https://amzn.to/37iIrVW

Tubing
https://amzn.to/2IQ8V7N

eSun White PLA+
https://amzn.to/3gLFU9T

And I have the following gear in place running Octoprint:
Raspberry Pi 4 (4gb)
https://amzn.to/3q551IO

SanDisk 32GB Ultra microSDHC UHS-I Memory Card with Adapter
https://amzn.to/2Vfvo0y

CanaKit 3.5A Raspberry Pi 4 Power Supply (USB-C)
https://amzn.to/3fNTYPu

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 4 Micro HDMI Cable – 6 Feet
https://amzn.to/33u5hr9

Western Digital 500GB WD_Black SN750 NVMe
https://amzn.to/3nZ5pH4

Plugable USB C to M.2 NVMe Tool-free Enclosure
https://amzn.to/3lflV3L

The most important thing is after you setup your system, you will need to dial it in. For that, you can refer to these pages:
Configure your Extrusion Multiplier:
https://tacticalware.com/ender-3-pro-simplify3d-configuring-the-extrusion-multiplier/

Confirm your heat settings:
https://tacticalware.com/3d-printing-heat-tower/

Thanks for reading!

SIMPLIFY3D SETTINGS FOR AN ENDER 3 PRO USING ESUN’S BLACK PLA

I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice eSun’s Black PLA, on a Creality Ender 3 Pro using a Micro Swiss Hotend.

Slicer Profile can be downloaded here:
https://tacticalware.com/downloads/Tacticalware_Ender_3_Pro_ESUN_Black_PLA.fff

Hardware that I used:
Ender 3 Pro


Hotend
https://amzn.to/37iIrVW

Tubing
https://amzn.to/2IQ8V7N

eSun PLA+
https://amzn.to/37gdSjs


And I have the following gear in place running Octoprint:
Raspberry Pi 4 (4gb)
https://amzn.to/3q551IO

SanDisk 32GB Ultra microSDHC UHS-I Memory Card with Adapter
https://amzn.to/2Vfvo0y

CanaKit 3.5A Raspberry Pi 4 Power Supply (USB-C)
https://amzn.to/3fNTYPu

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 4 Micro HDMI Cable – 6 Feet
https://amzn.to/33u5hr9

Western Digital 500GB WD_Black SN750 NVMe
https://amzn.to/3nZ5pH4

Plugable USB C to M.2 NVMe Tool-free Enclosure
https://amzn.to/3lflV3L

The most important thing is after you setup your system, you will need to dial it in. For that, you can refer to these pages:
Configure your Extrusion Multiplier:
https://tacticalware.com/ender-3-pro-simplify3d-configuring-the-extrusion-multiplier/

Confirm your heat settings:
https://tacticalware.com/3d-printing-heat-tower/

Thanks for reading!

USING PRONTERFACE WITH THE BIGTREETECH SKR 1.4 TURBO

Ok, so I have the SKR 1.4 TURBO which I will be installing into the Creality CR-10 S5, and to make it work properly, I had to create my own firmware and burn it to the board. Once it is on the board I want to ensure it works properly before I spend the time, rewiring the board and placing it into the control box. How would I verify the board works properly?

Pronterface

This little app allows me to test the board after the firmware has been installed to make sure it works. Also if I am having problems with CR10S5, because the EXP1 and EXP2 ports are not working with my SKR 1.4 Turbo…this little app will let me understand why.

To use pronterface, download it from:

Extract the files to the desktop

On your SKR 1.4 turbo, make sure you set the jumper on the 5v pair instead of the 12-24v pair

Plug the board into the USB drive on your computer and let it boot up

Now open the \Printrun-win-18Nov2017 folder

Launch the app named pronterface.exe

and click Connect within the app

If all went well, this will connect to your board and give you the following message in the dialog box all the way to the right
Connecting…
Printer is now online.

So your board works!

You can send the M503 code to it and check out all the nitty gritty, or you can simply power your board down and install it in the printer

PETG – JAMMING HOTEND, BRITTLE LAYERS AND BREAKS EASILY [SOLVED]


Let’s start here…some PETG prints were amazing…clips, guides, knobs, just about anything without a long flat layer that had infill.

Then began my struggle (see the image below)


After meticulously dialing in my system, running retraction tests, heat towers, extrusion stepper modifications, extrusion multipliers, drying out filament and many many other steps to prep my system for a successful run with PETG prints…. My hotend kept jamming or under extruding, the extruder would click and click, and my prints were terrible.

After it would finish printing, it would break apart by simply touching it….

The solution to this…..

Open Simplify3D

Modify the FFF process

Go to the cooling tab

Set cooling on Layer 1 to 0

Remove all other setpoints

Uncheck the box that says Increase fan speed for layers below

Save, reslice and reprint

The result…

A solid print in PETG

PETG loves heat….and is ruined with cooling

Now It’s time for me to go back around and reconfigure my system with the extrusion multiplier, speed tests, heat towers, retraction tests….everything

Dimensional Accuracy with PETG on the Ender 3 Pro aka Elephants Foot [SOLVED]

In printing PETG On the ender three pro I found a variety of settings and examples and temperatures all of which are great suggestions and will leave me in the direction that I need to go however none of them are exact to what I need.

So I started with printing the calibration cube and found the X and Y axis are fine, however the Z axis seems to have some extra squish to it meaning that it’s about 0.3 mm too short, and those first few layers seem to bow outwards

Down my settings are as follows

PETG – AmazonBasics PETG Black

Nozzle – 250C

Bed – 80C

Printer – Ender 3 Pro

after a bit of measuring and fine-tuning I found that my bed temperature was too high so the solution was very simple.

Change the bed temperature to 60C and re-print

Problem solved and my next cube had the perfect dimensions

ENDER 3 PRO – PETG ISSUE – EXTRUDER CLICKS AND PETG WORN DOWN BY EXTRUDER [SOLVED]

So this is she was a tricky one your extruder starts to click but the PETG still prints for a while. If it goes on long enough your PETG will stop printing all together and jam in the nozzle

When you clear the jam by pulling the PETG out and you look at the hot end part of it, it’s melted and thicker than the rest of the filament.


When you look at the filament where it was stuck in the extruder it’s substantially worn down and sometimes it’s completely broken off

Essentially what’s happening here is you are putting too much filament through the extruder and it’s backing up at the hot end. Once it backs up too much it jams the nozzle in your extruder starts clicking and wearing down the filament all the way to the point where the filament will break off

The fix for this is easy slow down the amount of filament you are putting through the extruder and that will solve the issue. PETG cannot print as fast as PLA so you will need to put new settings in for the print speed field in your slicer.

I have found that printing somewhere between 1800 to 2200 mm/min is the sweet spot for my under three pro running Amazon basics PETG black. However this setting will change depending on the manufacturer you use and the color and the density of the filament as well.