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I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice eSUN’s PETG in Black, on a Creality Ender 3 Pro with a Direct Drive setup, using a Micro Swiss Hotend.
I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice Hatchbox’s PETG in Black, on a Creality Ender 3 Pro with a Direct Drive setup, using a Micro Swiss Hotend.
I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice SainSmart’s TPU, on a Creality Ender 3 Pro with a Direct Drive setup, using a Micro Swiss Hotend.
I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice eSUN’s PLA+ in Black, on a Creality Ender 3 Pro with a Direct Drive setup, using a Micro Swiss Hotend.
I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice eSun’s White PLA+, on a Creality Ender 3 Pro using a Micro Swiss Hotend. If you have already downloaded and are using my eSun Black PLA FFF file, you will still need this one. Different Colors require different settings.
I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice eSun’s Black PLA, on a Creality Ender 3 Pro using a Micro Swiss Hotend.
I am in the process of putting together several posts, which detail my printer hardware, along with giving you a copy of my FFF profile for that setup. For this post I am using Simplify3D to Slice Graft Milk’s Matte Black PLA, on a Creality CR10S5 using a Bondtech BMG extruder, and a Micro Swiss Hotend.
Let’s start here…some PETG prints were amazing…clips, guides, knobs, just about anything without a long flat layer that had infill.
Then began my struggle (see the image below)
After meticulously dialing in my system, running retraction tests, heat towers, extrusion stepper modifications, extrusion multipliers, drying out filament and many many other steps to prep my system for a successful run with PETG prints…. My hotend kept jamming or under extruding, the extruder would click and click, and my prints were terrible.
After it would finish printing, it would break apart by simply touching it….
The solution to this…..
Open Simplify3D
Modify the FFF process
Go to the cooling tab
Set cooling on Layer 1 to 0
Remove all other setpoints
Uncheck the box that says Increase fan speed for layers below
Save, reslice and reprint
The result…
A solid print in PETG
PETG loves heat….and is ruined with cooling
Now It’s time for me to go back around and reconfigure my system with the extrusion multiplier, speed tests, heat towers, retraction tests….everything
Go to your processes and change the following settings: On the Extruder tab Set extrusion width to 0.48 Set extrusion multiplier to 1.00 Drag the Infill slider to Zero On the Layer tab Set Top Solid Layers to 0 Set Bottom Solid Layers to 0 Set Outline/Perimeter Shells to 1
Click Prepare to Print for the cube
You should see that the cube is 1 layer wide
Measure the wall thickness of this cube after it prints. My wall thickness measured in at 0.58
Now, to find out if the extrusion multiplier is accurate, run the following formula: Desired Wall Thickness / Measured Wall Thickness * Extrusion multiplier = New Extrusion Multiplier (Ex. 0.48 / 0.58 * 1.00 = 0.8275)
I will round the 0.8275 up to 0.83 and set this as my Extrusion Multiplier setting